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Mar 17, 2025

職人と手仕事が生む独自の生地を扱う「小松和テキスタイル」とは?

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Hello.

This is mammy from the ApparelX trend blog.

This time we will introduce "Komatsuwa Textile", which deals in highly unique textile.


What is Komatsuwa Textile?

Komatsuwa Textile is a long-established fabric textile founded in 1954 and headquartered in Nihonbashi, Tokyo.

In addition to wholesaling textile, we also plan, develop, and sell textile in-house.

The planning and development of these textile is quite distinctive, and they have several brands that identify their dyeing factories.

(This will be explained in more detail in the next section.)

We carefully select the raw materials and thread, and work directly with dyeing factories to create textile.

Now I would like to introduce you to the different types of textile that are available.


Higashi-niyaki (Tokyo)

Azuma-taniki is a coined word combining "Azuma" (East) from Tokyo and "Takikomi" (cooking with rice).

It is produced at a dyeing factory located at the foot of Tokyo Skytree.

This is a modern revival of the "kamaire" dyeing method that was used during the Edo period, in which woven textile is placed in a small Goemon bath, mixed with colors extracted from plants, and slowly boiled to dye it.

The biggest feature of Azuma-nishiki is that it is dyed in a smaller pot than usual.

This allows the textile to be kneaded thoroughly and repeatedly slammed against the walls of the pot.
This removes the core, creating a soft, crumpled texture.


I actually had the chance to touch the Azuma-nishiki typewritter cloth textile. typewritter cloth is normally tightly woven and has a firm textile , but after the Azuma-nishiki process it became surprisingly soft and had a soft texture, as if it had been washed many times.


The Azuma-nishiki series has many beautiful checks and colors, so it is recommended for women.


AZUMADAKI-91 A wonderful adult's ta-tan! Azuma-boiled processing


Although it is made from 100% linen, it has been processed using the Higashi-niji method to give it a soft and natural fluffiness.
It also features a natural wrinkled look.


AZUMADAKI-130 Antique French Linen


Beautiful French linen in beautiful colors.
All of them are beautiful with their deep colors, but personally I highly recommend number 3 Sky Blue as it has a slight greenish tint.


AZUMADAKI-143 Higashi-boiled gourd island antique quilt

This quilted textile is made of two layers of 40-count textile with continuous gourd-shaped stitches.

There is no cotton between the overlapping textile of textile, so it is not too thick and is recommended for use as outerwear.


Kotohira Cooking (Kagawa)

The textile for Kotohira-daki is made in a town surrounded by the beautiful Seto Inland Sea and Japan's smallest mountain, Miyama.
Originally a glove production area, this dyeing factory started out dyeing knitted thread.
As the area is close to workwear production areas of Hiroshima and Okayama, the company specializes in sturdy textile that retain their stiffness, such as for bottom fabrics.

Suitable for outerwear and bottoms.


KOTOHIRADAKI-20 Antique Quilt Diamond Man

An antique style quilt textile from linen/cotton.

It has a wrinkled look and texture as if it has been washed many times.

Recommended as outerwear.


KOTOHIRADAKI-31 Antique Pupupu Wakoru Pupupu Wakoru Kotohira-cooked processing



It is textile of cotton corduroy fabric.

The corduroy fabric has been processed textile the Kotohira method to give it a used and sophisticated look.

Recommended for jackets, outerwear, bottoms, etc.


KOTOHIRADAKI-37 Rinuwanpippi ~ Old vintage processing

Vintage style cotton/linen textile.

Available in a wide range of calm, sophisticated colors.

The textile is sturdy, so it is recommended for outerwear such as jackets.


Orihime Cooking (Tochigi)

The dyeing factory is located in Ashikaga, where Orihime Shrine is located, an area known for silk, silk dyeing, and meisen since the Edo period.

This is a dyeing factory that originally started out dyeing silk thread.

They specialize in a textile texture that is exactly halfway between the Higashi-taki and Kotohira-taki styles introduced earlier.


ORIHIMEDAKI-4 40/ High density damp proof Orihime cooking processing


This is a damp-proof textile that is high density and has just the right amount of firmness.

The calming earth color tones can be used by both men and women.


Kiri-shichi cooking (Gunma)

Kiryu is located in the eastern end of Gunma prefecture in the northern part of the Kanto plain, on the border with Tochigi prefecture. The name Kiri Nanataki comes from the fact that it is the land of seven weaving techniques and traditional crafts.

We have been in this area for over 100 years, and we have been making use of our knowledge and techniques of dyeing and coloring, coexisting and prospering with the good old days, while initially carrying out the final processes of desizing and steaming kimono obi fabric. Kirinana-taki was born from a dyeing method that conveys the skills, techniques, passion and passion of craftsmen handed down from generation to generation.


We specialize in men's style items and mainly produce medium-weight items such as denim.

They have high-pressure machinery and produce 24 hours a day in three shifts.


KINANADAKI-12 Kiri Shichitaki 12 Warmth and Feeling Old Vintage Processing


KINANADAKI-57 Kiri Shichitaki 57 Warmth and Feeling Old Vintage Processing


It is thick and has a fuzzy surface, making it a great choice for autumn and winter jackets and outerwear.


Precautions when using textile

-Since many of our textile are handmade by artisans, the production lead time for the textile is quite long.

Please allow sufficient lead time for the process from sample creation to mass production.


- Apparently, people sometimes say that it is difficult to cut the textile because it tends to be distorted.

The textile is dyed using a machine similar to a washing machine, so wrinkles may appear. Please be careful when cutting.


- There are many fabrics that textile greatly depending on the lot.
For mass production, please cut from one lot at a time.


- Flaxen (unbleached), which is mainly made from natural materials. Since the thread is made from natural colors, the color is apparently not stable.

Depending on the time of harvest, the color may be black or flaxen, so please understand that this is a natural color.

lastly

Komatsuwa Textile teams up with dye factories across Japan to develop unique textile.

I actually spoke to the employees, and I could really sense their passion to promote Japan's quality and the shrinking number of Japanese dye factories.


ApparelX also carries products other than those introduced this time.

Komatsuwa Textile textile can be found here .



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